We paid our first visit to the medieval town of Óbidos on Friday, along with about 100 coachloads of pilgrims. Luckily we got there early before the narrow, narrow cobbled streets of this pretty walled town became too crowded. It was so pretty with the whitewashed houses, the flowering plants and colourful handicrafts spilling out into the street from shady shops full of arches and wooden beams. The arched entranceway was walled with stunning azulejos and for the strong-hearted the, unprotected, 1.5 kms of battlements give great views of town and country. If you visit, look out for shots of ginjinha, cherry liqueur, sold in chocolate cups and beautiful tiles everywhere. You don’t need too long to do it justice – so when hunger strikes, head off on the hour or so drive to the coastal town of Ericeira for a wide choice of excellent value restaurants. Look out for the pits on the seafront, where mussels used to be cultivated.